Eddie Pensier writes:
The chateaubriand for two at Keens Steakhouse in New York City. Worth every cent of its princely price tag of $108. The three sauce boats in the background contain béarnaise, mushroom, and red wine sauces, all delicious and superfluous. The buttery-tender meat needed nothing but a few flakes of sea salt to be sublime. (That, and a bite of those silky, unctuous mashed potatoes.)
Keens is also a mecca if you’re a fan of old New York history (as I am) and theater history (ditto). It opened in the late 19th century as a post-performance hangout for actors, playwrights, and other stage folk. (They were also sued for sex discrimination by Lillie Langtry, who was barred from entering the premises. She won.) The clientele soon expanded to include celebrities of the time, who were permitted to store their Dutch clay churchwarden pipes on the premises. Today, Keens claims to have the largest collection of churchwardens in the world, including those belonging to Babe Ruth, Teddy Roosevelt, and Albert Einstein.
And just because, here’s another epic Keens steak: their prime rib (affectionately nicknamed “The Roof Tile”). Yes, it is as enormous and delicious as it looks.
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I have nothing against spending lots of money on dinner, but I never find a steakhouse worth the price. Because a steak is something I can make nearly just as well at home in a pan, believe it or not, without the overhead (mind you, this does involve paying $30+ for a prime steak — it’s all about the ingredients). I also find the sides a bore. Oh yay, more creamed spinach! But to each his/her/its own.
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The mutton chop – yes, mutton, sometimes lamb just doesn’t do the trick – is another specialty and is out of this world.
Regarding the comment about the value of steakhouses, even if you buy the same cuts of meat, it’s not going to be the same because a home broiler cannot generate enough heat.
Peter
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Who uses a broiler? You just make a frying pan very hot with a little oil. Steaks come out great (though you can get a lot of smoke in the kitchen and the stove is a mess, even with a splatter guard). Doesn’t really work for very fat steaks, admittedly. Nothing against steak houses, but if I’m spending my own dime I like more creative food for my money. Steak is good when it’s a business dinner and somebody else is paying.
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Oh, that prime rib looks wonderful!
Thanks for the food porn!
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