Paleo Retiree writes:
Our Cocktail Du Jour series is mainly intended as a way to celebrate the pleasures of leisure, class, elegance, funkiness and getting a little high, as well as an ongoing tip of the hat to the cocktail renaissance we Americans are fortunate enough to be experiencing. (It’s not like you get to choose which artistic/cultural golden eras you live through — nothing you can do about when and where you were born. So why not take note of, explore and enjoy the ones that do come your way?) Man oh man, are there ever a lot of good bartenders out there, from solid traditionalists to flashy innovators and inventors.
Sad to say, though, that not all the news from the “craft cocktail” world is good. The other night, the Question Lady and I were out and about in Tucson and settled on a stylish-seeming, upscale place for dinner. I proceeded to be served the two worst “signature cocktails” I’ve ever had.
The first abomination — sadly, I was too stunned by its clueless awfulness to remember to take a snapshot of it — was the place’s variant on a Sazerac. The first bad idea was infusing the rye with apple and cinnamon — two flavors which are not meant to play nice with Pernod. The second bad idea was to hang an orange wedge on the edge of the glass. It turns out that there are good reasons why you’re never served a glass of orange/apple/licorice juice. The welcome harshness of the rye wasn’t nearly sufficient to mask the mixture’s really epic badness.
Hoping that a return to basics would redeem the drinks dimension of the evening, I ordered an Old Fashioned. What I was served was the place’s variant. By now I was on the alert and morbidly curious. Here’s a shot of the thing:
The color in the shot is accurate — the drink was more pink-red than amber. It had struck the place’s barmaster as a good idea to, essentially, fill the glass with as much cherry liquid as booze. Drinking it reminded me of nothing so much as going through one of those cans of Hawaiian Punch that many Boomers will remember from childhood. Hard for me to imagine that the words “Old Fashioned” would occur to anyone making their way through this cocktail.
But, given that the food was as fancy-yet-clueless as the drinks, maybe these concoctions please the place’s clientele. Despite the place’s chic appearance and chic-seeming menu, the crowd was far more caught up in the U of A basketball game on the TVs than in the food. So maybe this is the sort of thing people with no tastebuds but reasonably full wallets and a desire to feel up to date really enjoy. Hard to know — and I certainly won’t be asking the place’s bartender for insights.



















