Umami Burger, Revisited

Eddie Pensier writes:

Paleo Retiree has blogged about the phenomenon that is Umami Burger. When I learned that the Tom Bradley International Terminal at LAX had a UB, it was decided that it would be our last meal on this particular US trip.

We both ordered the “Manly Burger”: beer-cheddar cheese, bacon lardons, mustard spread, smoked-salt onion strings, and house ketchup. There’s literally nothing in that description that doesn’t make my umami-loving mouth water. (I’d briefly considered the “LAX Burger” with Stilton and port-caramelized onions, but bleu cheese on a burger always sounds better in theory than it turns out in execution, and besides, bacon.)

First of all, as a devotee of attractive packaging, let me point out the snazzy fluted paper wrapping the appropriately man-sized burger.WP_000817

On to the burger itself: I don’t generally approve of seasonings within the burger patty itself, but whatever umami-boosters were mixed into the meat were unobtrusive enough to merely increase the beefiness to nuclear levels. The cheese had the unctuous silkiness of the very finest nacho topping, the onions were crispy perfection, and the bacon was chewy and smoky. I usually prefer bacon in strip form, but the lardons (fancy word for “chunks”) were small enough to not interfere with chewing, yet large enough to add bursts of extra porkiness and yes, umami. The spreads were applied thinly enough to avoid the unsightly goopiness/squirting that will mar a less carefully crafted burger.

WP_000818The fries were thin, crunchy, and not the least bit soggy: just the way I like ’em. Even the ketchup had an umami twist to it: a miso-ish savoriness, or was it the aftertaste of oyster mushrooms? Whatever. Sensational.

WP_000820Umami Burger isn’t cheap: two burgers, two drinks and one order of fries cost a not-inconsequential $45. But for a thoughtful and tremendously satisfying burger several dozen notches above the conventional, it’s hard to do better.

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About Eddie Pensier

Television junkie, opera buff, connoisseur of unhealthy foods, fashion watcher, art lover and admirer of beautiful people of all sexes.
This entry was posted in Food and health, The Good Life, Travel and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

8 Responses to Umami Burger, Revisited

  1. peterike says:

    No knock on Umami Burger — it looks delicious — but when even “fast food” is now showing a sharp divide between the haves and have-nots, to me that’s a disturbing long-term social trend.

    I wonder how often some have-not wanders into Umami, not realizing the prices, and then walks out when they see the menu.

    Like

    • Michael says:

      I think it’s appeal is for the bragging rights considering we are talking about LA..
      An Umami burger sounds so much better than a Happy Meal *sarcasm*
      Personally I’d rather spend a couple of dollars on couscous and cauliflower for a low carb healthy meal.

      Like

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  5. pickygal says:

    hi! i’m flying home via LAX as well! where is it exactly? thx

    Like

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